Roberto Voerzio, Barolo Cerequio, 2004
Roberto Voerzio built his reputation by throwing fruit on the ground. He green-harvests with a ruthlessness that still makes other Barolo growers wince, cutting bunches until the vine has almost nothing left to ripen — and what remains gets everything the plant has. Cerequio is one of the great crus of the Barolo zone, a warm, south-facing amphitheater on the La Morra flank that gives Nebbiolo both perfume and muscle. The 2004 vintage was the classic, patient one, a return to form after the scorching 2003, and two decades on this is a wine doing what only mature Nebbiolo does: tar, dried rose, sour cherry and truffle, with tannins that have traded grip for grain. This bottle reached us from a private cellar. Decant it, and give it time in the glass.
Roberto Voerzio, Barolo Cerequio, 2004
Roberto Voerzio built his reputation by throwing fruit on the ground. He green-harvests with a ruthlessness that still makes other Barolo growers wince, cutting bunches until the vine has almost nothing left to ripen — and what remains gets everything the plant has. Cerequio is one of the great crus of the Barolo zone, a warm, south-facing amphitheater on the La Morra flank that gives Nebbiolo both perfume and muscle. The 2004 vintage was the classic, patient one, a return to form after the scorching 2003, and two decades on this is a wine doing what only mature Nebbiolo does: tar, dried rose, sour cherry and truffle, with tannins that have traded grip for grain. This bottle reached us from a private cellar. Decant it, and give it time in the glass.
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Roberto Voerzio built his reputation by throwing fruit on the ground. He green-harvests with a ruthlessness that still makes other Barolo growers wince, cutting bunches until the vine has almost nothing left to ripen — and what remains gets everything the plant has. Cerequio is one of the great crus of the Barolo zone, a warm, south-facing amphitheater on the La Morra flank that gives Nebbiolo both perfume and muscle. The 2004 vintage was the classic, patient one, a return to form after the scorching 2003, and two decades on this is a wine doing what only mature Nebbiolo does: tar, dried rose, sour cherry and truffle, with tannins that have traded grip for grain. This bottle reached us from a private cellar. Decant it, and give it time in the glass.
