Jade Gross, Piano, Piano Rioja Tinto, 2023
Piano, piano — Italian for slowly, slowly — was the first wine Jade Gross ever made, and the name doubles as a mission statement. She arrived in Rioja by an unlikely route: raised in Hong Kong, a master's in human rights, then years on the line at Mugaritz and El Celler de Can Roca before trading the pass for the vineyard in 2019. Her Tempranillo quietly argues against most of what Rioja got famous for — no heavy oak, no showy extraction, nothing hurried. What's left is dark cherry and wild flowers with a curl of spice, carried on fine-grained tannin and honest acidity. It's a red that rewards paying attention, which is very much the point.
Jade Gross, Piano, Piano Rioja Tinto, 2023
Piano, piano — Italian for slowly, slowly — was the first wine Jade Gross ever made, and the name doubles as a mission statement. She arrived in Rioja by an unlikely route: raised in Hong Kong, a master's in human rights, then years on the line at Mugaritz and El Celler de Can Roca before trading the pass for the vineyard in 2019. Her Tempranillo quietly argues against most of what Rioja got famous for — no heavy oak, no showy extraction, nothing hurried. What's left is dark cherry and wild flowers with a curl of spice, carried on fine-grained tannin and honest acidity. It's a red that rewards paying attention, which is very much the point.
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Piano, piano — Italian for slowly, slowly — was the first wine Jade Gross ever made, and the name doubles as a mission statement. She arrived in Rioja by an unlikely route: raised in Hong Kong, a master's in human rights, then years on the line at Mugaritz and El Celler de Can Roca before trading the pass for the vineyard in 2019. Her Tempranillo quietly argues against most of what Rioja got famous for — no heavy oak, no showy extraction, nothing hurried. What's left is dark cherry and wild flowers with a curl of spice, carried on fine-grained tannin and honest acidity. It's a red that rewards paying attention, which is very much the point.
